World travel map

Here's a map of the countries I have had a chance to visit. If you'd like to make your own map of countries (or U.S. states) visited, just click here.

A busy first week

My first few days of work at the International Organization for Migration (IOM) have been hectic but very good. I am excited about my internship and the projects that the organization has planned for me. I am especially pleased that my work here directly relates to my areas of interest, current studies at Fletcher, and past work experiences. Here is a brief summary of my first three days of work.

Monday was my first official day at the office and my supervisor put me right to work. He has arranged for me to work on two interesting projects with two other staff members. First, I'll be working with Catalina on developing a National Plan for Exhumations and putting together funding proposals to secure financial support for the Colombian government to conduct mass grave exhumations. The country has been in constant conflict for over 40 years and mass graves have accumulated throughout this period of violence. Second, I'll be working with Peter, a Dutchman based in Geneva, on a report that will provide the government with guidance as it takes its first steps to prosecute individuals responsible for war crimes and crimes against humanity. These two projects could ostensibly take a while but I think that the plan is that I'll finish these within the next week or so and then move on to my next projects.

I spent a good portion of the day doing research and writing on four past criminal tribunals. Specifically, I am researching recent tribunals and truth commissions in Africa (Rwanda, Sierra Leone, and South Africa) and Southeastern Europe (Former Yugoslavia). My goal is to collect information on these tribunals and summarize the various challenges that these judicial mechanisms have faced throughout their mandate. Colombia has set out to prosecute thousands of individuals responsible for war crimes and crimes against humanity, however based on past experiences only a fraction of those responsible can realistically be arrested, investigated, and convicted for their crimes. This is a reality that many countries must grapple with as they emerge from conflict situations and seek to re-establish the rule of law.

I had a meeting on Tuesday morning with the District Attorney to discuss the challenges of carrying out exhumations of mass graves in Colombia. The IOM has asked me to work with the District Attorney and members of the Prosecutor's Office to identify their areas of greatest need, to develop a protocol for conducting exhumations, and to devise a budget which we at IOM will then use to solicit funding from the United Nations member states. IOM and the District Attorney are interested in learning from my experiences in Perú and my work in exhumations. Specifically, they are hoping that I will provide them with guidance on "best practices" for returning the deceased individuals' remains to the surviving family members.

I spent the morning on Wednesday at the Foreign Ministry Office getting my immigration visa. For the remainder of the day, I will be writing a summary of the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia (ICTY), the International Criminal Tribual for Rwanda (ICTR), the Special Court for Sierra Leone, and the South African Truth and Reconciliation Commission. These summaries will be included in a report to the Colombian government that will offer recommendations on how best to prosecute the nearly 2,000 demobilized ex-combantants (ex-paramilitaries and ex-guerrillas).

Los Tunos Nature Reserve

On Sunday morning I met up with about 20 employees of the United Nations Development Program (UNDP) and joined them on an excursion to Los Tunos Nature Reserve. The reserve is located just about one hour by bus outside the city of Bogotá. Along the bus route, I was surprised at how quickly the city of Bogotá disappeared and gave way to a rural countryside of green hills and mountains. For example, just thirty minutes outside of the city the bus stopped and I took this picture of a beautiful waterfall and canyon!

When we arrived at the reserve we were treated to several tasty snacks (meat pastries, chocolate, fruit) and drinks before we headed out on our guided tour of the reserve. At Los Tunos, visitors can enjoy hiking, rock climbing, fishing at a trout farm, and relaxing within the confines of a beautiful and quiant bed and breakfast.

On our four-hour guided tour we hiked up the mountain along a steep and rocky mountain stream and into a "cloud forest." We even had to rely on ropes to climb several waterfalls! During our hike we learned about the many unique flowers, plants, and trees that grow on the reserve. One such beautiful but often deadly flower produces a neurotoxin that causes people to lose consciousness (and die) when the flower's aromatic pollen is inhaled. We all stayed plenty far away from that flower! Another poisonous plant has long been used by native people for fishing. When the plant's leaves are placed in a river or stream, poison paralyzes any fish in the area and causes them to float to the surface where they can then be collected. Amazing, right?

Our day at the reserve concluded with a delicious lunch that consisted of soup, fresh trout, fried yucca, rice, salad, fruit, and coffee served on an outdoor patio that was surrounded by a garden of beautiful of trees and flowers. In the end, I left the reserve quite amazed that such a beautiful place could exist just a short bus ride away from the hustle and bustle of Bogotá. It was a great day and I definitely recommend checking out the Tunos nature reserve if you ever find yourself in Bogotá!

A day of hiking in Bogotá

On Monday I learned that it was a religious holiday (the Day of Ascension) and that most offices and businesses would be closed. I then decided to enjoy the holiday in the same way that many locals do – by hiking up the Cerro de Monserrate. The Cerro (Mountain) de Monserrate is one of the highest peaks in the mountain range flanking Bogotá to the east. From downtown, it is easily recognizable by the massive white church crowning its top. On Monday morning, I joined the thousands of people who had flocked to the mountain to hike up its steep stone path and I was especially amazed by the masses of children that easily scampered up the rugged mountain path. By foot, the exhausting 1.5 mile hike up to Monserrate takes about an hour, but the less adventurous can get to the top in a matter of minutes by taking a fast-moving cable car (teleférico) or funicular railway. For the hikers, the path is lined with numerous venders and stalls selling a variety of goods including cold drinks, sandwiches, cookies, ice cream, jello, and fruit. I found two salesmen to be especially intriguing and unusual. One was selling cell phone minutes whereby you could pay to make a phone call from the side of the mountain. And the other was an elderly man selling chocolate-covered ants. He walked up and down the path and would yell out, “Ants! Ants! Get your delicious ants!” As he went by, I would hear people whispering, “Did he say ants? Oh my goodness! He is selling ants!”

Once at the top of the mountain, the view of Bogotá from Monserrate was absolutely breathtaking. Click on "My Latest Photos" to view pictures that I took during my hike up the Cerro de Monserrate.

Zipaquirá and the Salt Cathedral

On Sunday I took the bus to Zipaquirá, a small town about 30 miles outside of Bogotá. The town is best known for its salt mine that produces over 700 tons of salt every month. Over a hundred years ago the salt miners erected several small chapels throughout the mine and would hold daily prayer services in these chapels to ask for God’s protection. Since then miners have built the massive Salt Cathedral, a functioning church that holds mass everyday inside the mine. Amazingly, this underground place of worship can accommodate more than 8400 worshippers and has been used for numerous weddings, concerts, and conventions. Nowadays, miners spend their nights extracting salt from the mountainside and allow visitors (like me) to wander around the mine’s labyrinthine tunnels during the day.

Aside from the impressive Salt Cathedral, Zipaquirá is a very quiet and peaceful town. I especially enjoyed wandering around its narrow, cobblestone streets and taking pictures of the brightly painted homes and shops. You can view some of my pictures in my Colombia Photo Gallery.

Bogotá: A city full of surprises

In many ways Bogotá seems to be far removed from the violence and conflict that we often associate with Colombia. The past several days I have had the opportunity to explore the city and a few surrounding areas. One thing that has especially amazed and surprised me is the incredible natural beauty of the city and the countryside, and the hospitality of its people. For example, on several occasions I have seen strangers give up their seats on a crowded bus just to allow a pregnant woman, a mother with children, or an elderly person to sit down. And the other day I asked for help on how to take the bus to downtown. A young woman kindly took me to the bus stop and explained how to identify my bus. She then stood with me at the bus stop and waited to make sure that I got on the bus without difficulties.

Despite the ongoing conflict in Colombia between leftist insurgents, illegal armed groups (paramilitaries), and state security forces, the Colombian people seem to be extremely hospitable, optimistic, and determined to reject violence in favor of building a brighter future for the country. On Friday night I spent a few hours walking around downtown Bogotá and I found that several large streets were closed off to traffic. Friendly volunteers dressed in yellow vests and baseball caps held up banners that read, “Street closed – so that our beautiful public spaces might be enjoyed in peace.” The city had also set up several performance stages that attracted thousands of children, young people, adults, and families to take in shows by musicians, singers, dancers, comedians, and artists. Yellow-clad volunteers did face-painting, made balloon animals, and invited kids and adults to participate in a game of jump rope that spanned across an entire city street. I later learned that this celebratory event is held every Friday and routinely attracts thousands of people, young and old, from every corner of the city.

El Museo del Oro (The Gold Museum)

Last Friday afternoon I visited El Museo del Oro (The Gold Museum). This museum is located in a large and modern building in the lively and historic downtown neighborhood known as La Candelaria. The impressive exhibit displays more than 34,000 gold pieces from the primary pre-Hispanic cultures of Colombia. Artifacts in the Museo del Oro include thousands of exquisite objects in stone, bone, clay, gold, emerald, and textiles from numerous advanced civilizations that had thrived in the region before the arrival of Columbus.

A Prayer for Peace

On Friday, I wandered around downtown Bogotá and came across this monument. It refers to a well-known prayer by St. Francis of Assisi and I thought that I would share it with you.

The inscription reads:
"Lord, make me an instrument of your peace – that I might spread love where there is hatred–forgiveness where there is transgression – faith where there is doubt–hope where there is hopelessness – light where there is darkness–and happiness where there is sadness.

Oh, Divine Master, help me that I might console rather than seek consolation–understand rather than seek to be understood–love rather than seek to be loved–because giving is receiving–and forgiving is how you forgive me–and by dying in you I am born into eternal life."
-St. Francis of Assisi.

"Lord:
Grant your glorious gift of peace to the Colombian people."
-The Third Fransciscan Order

Water is life

The water was shut off in the entire neighborhood yesterday and today the situation remains unchanged. You know, we just don't realize how important water really is until it is gone. We are still without water today and there has been no sign of it being turned back on. This morning I found myself getting pretty frustrated with the situation because no water also meant no shower, toothbrushing, or using the toilet, all things that I am accustomed to doing on a regular basis. I spoke with the hotel owner, a man visibly distressed by the situation, and he put it best by saying, "Water is life. Without water, we have no life!"

So, yesterday I also visited the IOM office and ran a few errands. I've "mastered" the Bogotá bus system (or at least the bus routes that run between my hotel and the office) and I have even met several co-workers. After stopping by the office and meeting the IOM staff, I checked out an apartment that Maggie and I might rent for the summer. The building is located in an upscale neighborhood of Northern Bogotá just steps away from the Parque de la 93. It was a spacious two-bedroom with beautiful hardwood floors, modern furnishings, daily housekeeping services, and a wonderful view of the city. The apartment includes two parking spaces, so perhaps I should think about getting a motorcycle. Just kidding.

Yesterday, I also got to experience the process of purchasing a cellphone in Bogotá. I went to COMCEL, one of Colombia's largest wireless providers. The mammoth store looked more like a bank with its 25+ numbered checkout counters (think bank tellers) and the dozen or so Customer Service cubicles that surrounded the cavernous display floor. The store was packed with customers, each one seemingly as determined as me to buy a new phone.

Unfortunately, the young sales people at COMCEL seemed rather indifferent to my determination and at one point I even said to a salesperson, "Sell me a cellphone. Any cellphone will do. Just recommend one and I'll buy it." Her response was, "Well, I don't know. I can't help you if you're interested in Motorolas. I only sell LGs and Ericcsons."

In the end, I found a Nokia (sans help from the LG/Ericcson salesperson) and proceeded to the checkout. But first, I was directed towards one of the Customer Service cubicles (a sign overhead informed me that this was for "Personalized Customer Service") to fill out an application. There I provided about 10 copies of my passport. Then I put my fingerprints on at least 12 different forms. I had my picture taken. And then, I waited...and waited. To be more precise, I waited about 45 minutes to be approved. I was then directed to stand in line to pay for my phone (a snazzy black Nokia). When I got to the head of the line, the credit card machine wasn't able to read my card. So, I ran to the bank and got some cash. When I returned, I stood in line again. Once I had paid, I then proceeded to stand in Line Number 24. After about 45 minutes in Line Number 24, I was given the most amazing, spectacular, and magnificent Nokia cellphone that I've ever seen in my life. After so much effort and anticipation, having it in my hands felt like how I imagine the birth of my first child. Seeing it there in all its plastic and silicon glory made the 4+ hours of personalized customer service seem all worth it.

Corruption traps millions in poverty

Transparency International is a global civil society organization that uses a variety of tools, including expert opinion surveys, questionnaires, and polls, to measure the perceptions of public sector corruption in 163 countries. According to Transparency International, corruption is defined as the misuse of entrusted power for private gain. The study of corruption is important because of the strong correlation that exists between corruption and poverty. Furthermore, corruption is not just a problem in a few countries; on the contrary, it is considered a serious domestic threat in over seventy-five percent of the world.

“Corruption traps millions in poverty,” says Transparency International Chair Huguette Labelle. “Despite a decade of progress in establishing anti-corruption laws and regulations, today’s results indicate that much remains to be done before we see meaningful improvements in the lives of the world’s citizens.” The fight against corruption in North America gained importance as a result of recent accounting, financial and political scandals. Meanwhile, corruption in Latin America is largely defined by structural problems that not only adversely affect the region’s economic and democratic development, but also place a direct burden on the overall quality of life.

In 2006, out of 163 countries surveyed the countries with the lowest perceived levels of corruption were Finland, Iceland, and New Zealand. Haiti, Myanmar, Iraq, and Guinea were among the countries with the highest levels of corruption. In a report that compares only countries located in the Americas, the United States ranks second, tied with Chile behind Canada. In comparison to the 163 countries surveyed worldwide, the United States ranks 20th overall. In contrast, Colombia ranks ninth in the Americas and 59th overall.

My first day in Bogotá

Greetings from the Casona del Patio Amarillo (the House with the Yellow Patio) in Bogotá, Colombia! I arrived safe and sound last night at around eight o’clock and settled into my hotel room about an hour later. The Casona del Patio Amarillo is a quaint Bed and Breakfast located in a quiet neighborhood in Northern Bogotá. My room is fairly large and has cable television, a small wooden armoire, an electric shower nozzle (for hot water), and three single beds. The room also has a great view of the yellow patio and the lush, green mountains that rise up alongside Bogotá.

My trip went well and I had no significant problems getting through customs, receiving my luggage, or finding a ride to the hotel. The issue of my tourist visa did resurface though while having the customs official stamp my passport. The length of my stay did seem to raise some red flags but the issue was fairly quickly resolved when I explained that I would have a work visa within a matter of days.

During my taxi ride from the airport to the hotel, I had a very pleasant conversation with my driver. We had a lively discussion on Colombian politics, corruption, taxes, family values, and the challenges of married life. He especially lamented the fact that Colombians pay such high taxes and yet receive so little in return in terms of public services. He complained about political corruption and how it has left the country with a legacy of dilapidated schools, roads, and hospitals. However, it did seem to cheer him up a little to learn that, while perhaps not to the same degree, similar problems exist even in the United States. He especially appreciated knowing that Boston had a not so fabulous roadway system and that the power and influence of the mafia (mob) was an issue that local Bostonians knew all too well.

Today I woke up early and had breakfast in the hotel. For those of you that have expressed interest in hearing about the more mundane details of my life in Colombia, today I had scrambled eggs, coffee, and a croissant for breakfast. During breakfast I made a plan for the rest of my day that includes stopping by the IOM office and looking for a two-bedroom, furnished apartment for Maggie and me.

Nearly grounded in Boston

I just arrived to Atlanta and I'm quite happy just to be here! When checking in for my flight from Boston I was told that I couldn't board the plane because I did not have the proper travel visa. A tourist visa is only valid for 90 days and since I will be staying in Colombia for longer, this led to several tense moments. Then again, I wasn't that worried because I will have a work visa within a few days. I knew that in the worst-case scenario, I could have had my tourist visa extended by simply leaving the country and re-entering to get a new stamp in my passport. This is a common practice that I have done before, therefore I knew that the airline representative was mistaken. In the end, the woman working behind the counter realized her mistake and let me board the plane to Atlanta. It all worked out in the end, but for a few minutes I thought that my travel plans had hit a snag.

The Children's Peace Movement

In 1995, the mayor of the war-torn municipality of Aguachica, Colombia announced that elections would be held and that residents would be asked to vote for peace or a continuation of the war. Shortly after his announcement, a group of children asked if they too could participate in the election. The mayor accepted and the children participated in the election. And one year later these same children formed a parallel "Children's Government" dedicated to peacemaking. The Children's Government organized “peace carnivals” and invited children from feuding communities to play together because, as they put it, “children having fun was a good way to help peace.”

The kids realized that most Colombians were unaware of how the conflict actually affected children and they knew that nobody could get that message across to the entire nation as effectively as could the children. So, they decided to organize a nationwide election for peace.

On October 25, 1996, children from across Colombia went to the polls to vote for their rights. Polling stations across the country ran out of ballots and in Bogotá the elections had to be extended to meet the overwhelming demand. More than 2.7 million children went to the polls that day and demanded their right to peace, their right to love, and their right to family. Even in the most violent areas of the country, it was estimated that voter turnout was over 90 percent. This historic event forced the issue of peace to the forefront of the forthcoming presidential elections. When Andres Pastrana was declared the presidential winner in 1998, he announced that the children had given him his agenda for the presidency and that if he did nothing else while in office he had to make peace.

“Peace begins with yourself, with the way you treat your family, your friends, your communities, your country – but it does not stop there. Peace that begins in the hearts of children can cover the whole world.” – Mayerly, age 14.

As demonstrated by the Children’s Peace Movement, the power of children is “not just in the eloquence of their words, but in the fact that they are said by children.” Today, the Children´s Peace Movement in Colombia has more than 100,000 members that have been trained in conflict resolution. Some children say that their views have been taken so seriously because of their innocence and sincerity. While adults may be skeptical of news reports and biased media accounts of the war, they tend to believe children when they talk about the devastating effects of violence.

In addition to children's perceived credibility, the warring parties also view children as neutral actors within the conflict. While neutrality does not ensure their protection, it does seem to influence the belligerent parties. On the day of the children’s election, state security forces, paramilitaries, and guerrillas agreed to a temporary cease-fire. And as one 16-year-old election participant pointed out, “if there can be one day of peace, why not a week, a month, a year, 50 years? Why not 50 years of peace to make up for our 50 years of war?”

What do you think? Can children actually make a difference in conflict zones?

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Cameron, Sara. 2000. “The Role of Children as Peace-Makers in Colombia.” Development. Volume 43, Number 1.

Cameron, Sara. 2000. “Voices of Colombian Children on War and Peace.” Development. Volume 43, Number 1.

Registraduría Nacional del Estado Civil (1996) Informe sobre el “Mandato Nacional de los Nìños por la Paz.” Bogotá.