Pablo Escobar: Violence, Cocaine, and Wealth

Written by Maggie Sullivan

Pablo Escobar: violence, cocaine, and wealth. These are the first words that come to mind when I think about the man who was named seventh-richest in the world by Forbes magazine in 1989 and who was considered by many to be the most brutal drug kingpin until his death on December 2nd, 1993.

In the late 1980s, American law enforcement and intelligence organizations were involved in a major initiative with Colombian authorities to track down and bring to justice Medellin cocaine trafficker Pablo Escobar. I just finished reading “Killing Pablo” by Mark Bowden, a book that recounts this game of cat and mouse involving both the Colombian and US governments.

I was surprised to read that contrary to popular belief, Escobar did not actually offer to pay off the Colombian debt of $10 billion in exchange for a pardon by the government. This is not to say that he did not bribe his way through Colombia, paying officials to look the other way whenever he shipped cocaine out of the country and convincing the government to let him build his own prison complete with a Jacuzzi, big screen televisions, and a bar.

And while Pablo Escobar did become one of the world’s most wanted man by both the Colombian and US governments, he was also very well-liked in his hometown of Medellín. He cultivated his Robin Hood image by supporting the construction of homes for the poor, sports complexes, and other community restoration projects.

As time passed, the cocaine industry grew and generated much greater profits. At one point Escobar might have been able to "make amends" with the Colombian government, however he eventually became deeply involved in an industry that ultimately led to the outright declaration of war between the Colombian government and the Medellín cartel. And as previously mentioned, the US played a significant role in this war. The US government, including the Central Intelligence Agency, Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA), and the State Department played a crucial role in the pursuit of Pablo Escobar by providing the Colombian government with training, equipment, and intelligence.

Whether or not US officials were present when Escobar was killed is still a matter of debate. However, what is certain is that US support played an undeniably important role in the search and assassination of Pablo Escobar.

The decline of the Medellin Cartel and rise of the Cali Mafia

So what did Escobar’s death signify for the cocaine industry? Did it result in the end of the so-called "war on drugs?" The answer is no. Instead, it signified the death of the Medellín cartel. And rather than destroy the Colombian cocaine industry, Escobar’s death merely shifted the balance of power from the Medellin Cartel to the Cali Mafia and it increased involvement of the paramilitaries (a.k.a. "death squads") in the cocaine business. Few would argue that Escobar’s death ended the “drug war.” Instead, most would argue that it simply shifted the major players of the game.

Maggie Sullivan is a second-year MALD student at The Fletcher School and is focusing her studies on Development Economics and International Monetary Theory. She is currently in Colombia doing an internship with the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC).

The Legacy of Truth: The Impact of Transitional Justice

On Wednesday, I had the opportunity to attend a regional conference entitled The Legacy of Truth: The Impact of Transitional Justice on the Building of Democracy in Latin America. At the conference, I was able to hear experts discuss transitional justice and the challenges facing the peace and justice process in Colombia. In general terms, transitional justice refers to "a range of approaches that societies undertake to reckon with legacies of widespread or systematic human rights abuse as they move from a period of violent conflict or oppression towards peace, democracy, the rule of law, and respect for individual and collective rights."

Panel topics included:

• Contributions of transitional justice in the building and strengthening of democracy;
• The role of truth commissions as catalysts for social inclusion;
  
• The contribution of criminal justice prosecutions in strengthening the rule of law;
• Demobilization processes and their influence on the rule of law, local reintegration, and citizen security;
• The future of political and social reconciliation: Rebuilding social cohesion and civilian confidence.

Speakers and panel moderators included the Vice President of Colombia, the Attorney General, ambassadors from Argentina, France, Switzerland, Peru, Mexico, and Chile, the President of the Colombian Reconciliation and Reparations Comission (CNRR), and numerous experts on transitional justice. I was especially excited to attend a lecture by Carlos Martin Beristain, a highly regarded expert on mass grave exhumations and psychosocial support for victims of political violence and "natural" disasters.

Since Wednesday's conference, I have been researching and writing a report that will provide recommendations to the Attorney General on "best" ways to return to relatives the remains of individuals exhumed from mass graves. This plan will outline several ways to meet the diverse needs of relatives attending such ceremonies. To accomplish this, I have been researching how such ceremonies have been conducted in Guatemala, Peru, Rwanda, Bosnia, and Kosovo and I have put together a summary of many "best practices" and "lessons learned." My objective is to develop a pilot project that will be implemented during a ceremony in Santa Marta, Colombia at the end of July. At this ceremony the remains of 30+ individuals will be returned to their families, and if the pilot project goes well this plan could be used during future ceremonies throughout Colombia.

Winning the "War on Drugs"

Written by Maggie Sullivan

Yesterday I had the opportunity to attend a press conference here in the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC) regarding the latest coca cultivation data. This conference was particularly interesting because of the perceived differences between the estimates of United States and Colombia regarding the (lack of?) progress on the “war on drugs.” The UNODC and Colombian Government’s official statistics show a reduction in total coca cultivation of 9%. However, the US numbers tell a different story: that there was no change in coca cultivation from 2005 to 2006. To explain this difference, it appears that the two governments have been using different methods to measure coca cultivation. According to Sandro Calvani, the representative here at the UNODC, there will be a meeting next week in Washington, D.C. in order to reach agreement upon setting a standard measuring method. In yesterday's press conference, Calvani emphasized the importance of international assistance in Colombia’s struggle against illicit drugs. This comes at a time when the US Congress has decided to change the direction of the aid package.

Regardless of whether total coca cultivation in Colombia has decreased, it has increased in Peru and Bolivia – which also means that the world supply remains unchanged. This is also called the “balloon effect.” The overall cultivation level does not really decrease, but rather it changes directions, similar to what happens when you squeeze a balloon.

Economic theory applies: as long as there is market demand, there will be supply.

Maggie Sullivan is a second-year MALD student at The Fletcher School and is focusing her studies on Development Economics and International Monetary Theory. She is currently in Colombia doing an internship with the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC).

Gay bombs, bad breath, and killer bees

Here's an unusual story that I discovered today while reading the Colombian newspaper, El Tiempo. The U.S. Defense Department has apparently investigated building a "gay bomb," which would make enemy soldiers "sexually irresistable" to each other and deliver a "lethal blow" to troop morale. Other unique and non-lethal weapons included one that would give soldiers bad breath, and yet another would attract swarms of enraged wasps or angry rats towards enemy troups. Apparently, plans were scrapped to build the "Who? Me?" device intended to simulate flatulence in enemy ranks because, "people in many areas of the world do not find fecal odor offensive, since they smell it on a regular basis."

In the Eyes of the FARC

If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the result of a hundred battles. If you know yourself but not the enemy, for every victory gained you will also suffer a defeat. If you know neither the enemy nor yourself, you will succumb in every battle.

-Sun Tzu, The Art of War

In order to understand the ongoing conflict in Colombia, we need to understand the complex and often enigmatic views of the Armed Revolutionary Forces of Colombia (FARC). And by improving their understanding of the FARC, government negotiators might be better able to achieve a negotiated prisoner swap.

Published in the Semana weekly magazine on June 10, the article entitled "In the Eyes of the FARC" (Spanish/English) offers a thoughtful reflection on some of the motivations behind this powerful movement. (Many thanks to Adam Isacson at the Center for International Policy for making this article available in English.)

The Importance of Understanding the Five "Core Concerns"

Whether we are negotiating a hostage exchange or simply deciding where to go for dinner, emotions can play an important role during negotiations. Fischer and Shapiro would recommend that Colombian negotiators study the FARC and strive to address their five "Core Concerns." The "Core Concerns" provide a way for us to understand the basic "human wants that are important to almost everyone in virtually every negotiation." And by focusing on these wants, negotiators can be more effective. The "Core Concerns" are appreciation, affiliation, autonomy, status, and role.

Appreciation is the desire we all have to feel understood and honestly valued. Mutual appreciation can increase the level of cooperation during negotiations.

Affiliation describes the sense of connectedness with another group or person. By recognizing the commonality between groups, negotiators can bridge the gap between the parties and enhance their ability to work together.

Autonomy refers to the "freedom to affect or make decisions without the imposition of other." Promoting autonomy is essential and requires that we also guard against impinging upon or interfering with the autonomy of others. When we impinge upon the autonomy of the other, we essentially take away their ability to make decisions independently.

Status refers to our perceived standing in comparison to the standing of others. Positive emotions can be fostered when our own status contributes to rather than detracts from our self-esteem. On the other hand, negative emotions can be generated through competition for status. Fischer and Shapiro point out that people tend to cooperate when there are more positive than negative emotions during negotiations.

Role describes the process of choosing a fulfilling role in the negotiation that satisfies your needs and standards of appreciation, affiliation, autonomy, and status.

This past week, President Uribe released dozens of FARC guerrillas from prison in an effort to stimulate the release of hostages held by the guerrilla movement. However, FARC leaders have vehemently rejected all offers of a unilateral government prisoner release, saying they would only negotiate a prisoner-for-hostage swap if the government created a demilitarized zone in two southwestern Colombian towns. In an interview with the so-called FARC "Chancellor," Raúl Reyes stated that the president's unilateral decision was viewed positively, "just as long as it is done without any conditions, any pressure, or any tricks." This sounds a lot like the FARC leadership is trying very hard to assert their autonomy, doesn't it?

To learn more about the "Core Concerns", you might pick up a copy of Beyond Reason: Using Emotions As You Negotiate by Roger Fischer and Daniel Shapiro. Or, you might like to check out this concise summary written by Hollie Hendrikson.

Chicaque Nature Reserve

On Sunday, I went with my friend Angie and her 7-year-old daughter Meily to the Chicaque Nature Reserve. Located approximately 45 minutes west of Bogota, Chicaque is a high-altitude cloud forest that is home to hundreds of plant and animal species, including more than 200 species of birds, 17 types of orchids, hares and rabbits, two-toed sloths, long-tailed monkeys, and bobcats. The reserve has over 15 kilometers of nature trails, seven forest habitat-types, and several waterfalls including one that is over 230 feet (70 meters) high. The park also offers a variety of amenities that include a hotel, a restaurant with great food and service, guided tours, horseback riding, and camping.

My friends and I spent the day at Chicaque by ascending and descending more than 15 kilometers of steep, rugged trails. And because we had started our hike somewhat late in the day we ended up running out of daylight. Deep in the heart of the forest and exhausted from the five hours already spent hiking, we climbed out of the park in nearly complete darkness. Fortunately, Meily was quite a trooper as she lead the way almost the entire day (except for the last half mile that I carried her on my back).
















The above map of Chicaque shows the trails and points of interest that we passed during our 10-12 mile hike. We started at the park entrance (point A) and hiked down to the scenic overlook (point B). Then, we continued down into the valley to the hotel and restaurant (point H) where we had lunch. Following lunch, we ventured off on a two-hour hike to the waterfalls (point J) and once there we found ourselves running out of daylight. Not good! So, we quickly headed towards the park entrance. However, by the time we reached point H, we had only the stars to light our way! Once we reached the park entrance (point A) we still had 1.9 miles of walking to reach the main highway where we were relieved to catch a bus back to Bogota.

Despite the nerve-racking final hours stumbling around in the dark, yesterday was definitely a memorable time spent enjoying the outdoors.

"The best Plan Colombia ever"

There's hardly a dull moment when it comes to Colombian politics. First, this week President Uribe has been working to free from prison approximately 150 members of the FARC (see #35), a leftist insurgency determined to overthrow the Colombian government. Second, the U.S. Congress is debating a proposal to alter the way foreign aid is given to Colombia. The goal of this new proposal is to create the best Plan Colombia ever.

What is Plan Colombia?

Since 2000, the United States has provided anti-drug and anti-terrorism support to the government of Colombia through "Plan Colombia" at an expense of over $5 billion. The aid package has primarily consisted of military aid and drug-eradication assistance (80%) in addition to funding for humanitarian assistance (20%). This week, Congress has proposed reducing the percentage of military assistance to approximately 65% and increasing the level of humanitarian aid to 35%. The new Plan Colombia would increase aid for much needed alternative development projects as well as for programs intended to promote democracy, assist communities displaced by the conflict, and help demobilize paramilitaries and guerrillas.

Why the change of heart?

This new stance by Congress appears to be connected to two recent and unsavory revelations: First, a recent White House report suggests that Colombia is not actually winning the "war on drugs." According to a report released by the White House this week, coca production has increased steadily over the past few years despite massive (and expensive) efforts to eradicate the illicit crop used for the production of cocaine. Second, recent reports also suggest that President Uribe and his administration have maintained close ties with the United Self-Defense Forces of Colombia (AUC), an illegal armed group that appears on the U.S. State Department's list of foreign terrorist organizations (See #42).

Colombia's "Narco-Bubble"

Over the past year, the Colombian peso (COP) has increased in value more against the U.S. dollar than any other currency in the world. President Uribe argues that Colombia is winning the war on drugs, pointing out that the country has dismantled paramilitaries, weakened guerrillas, and reduced the narco-economy, however economic indicators tell a different story. The growing strength of the COP has seriously hurt the country’s exports and job market. And despite Uribe's claims of winning the drug war, the Financial Times reports that the steady rise in the peso is due to a massive influx of dollars from narco-trafficking.

The "new" Plan Colombia

In my view, the "new" Plan Colombia will directly assist those working to strengthen the Colombian peace process. First, funding for alternative development projects is needed by those whose primary source of income comes from the cultivation of illicit crops. Without these crops, many have no other livelihood options and therefore are resistant to giving up this guaranteed source of income. Second, the new Plan would provide much needed funding support for Colombia’s strained judicial system. The system currently burdened by the task of investigating and prosecuting thousands of demobilized paramilitaries and guerrillas. The funding would permit the hiring of much needed judges, prosecutors, and investigators to prosecute those individuals bearing the greatest responsibility for serious violations of international humanitarian law.

Based on my recent conversations with the prosecutors office, investigators conducting exhumations often are forced to take public transportation (taxis and buses) to the grave locations because they lack vehicles of their own. These are often in isolated areas controlled by paramilitaries or guerrillas where the security situation tends to get "a bit complicated." The fact that investigators must resort to using public transportation exposes them to greater security risks that could be mitigated by having access to their own private vehicles. It appears that the new Plan Colombia will provide much needed financial support for such purchases.

A solemn day in Bogota

Monday morning I received a phone call from Catalina, a co-worker of mine from IOM. She called to let me know that we had been invited to attend a funeral-like ceremony known as an entrega de restos. During the entrega de restos, government officials returned the remains of four deceased individuals to their respective families. The four individuals had been murdered by paramilitaries and were discovered in November 2006 in a mass grave outside of Bogota. Since November, the national police and forensic investigators had worked to identify the individuals and determine their cause of death. On Monday, the families of the deceased were able to receive the remains of their lost loved ones and take steps to provide them with a dignified burial.

Before heading to yesterday's ceremony I had the opportunity to meet with the Attorney General of Colombia. I was especially impressed by his concern for the victims and their families. I was actually quite impressed by all of the officials who spoke yesterday and their commitment to the victims' families. For this reason, I have been asked by the District Attorney to work along with the Special Prosecutor for Exhumations to design a program that ensures that families receive the proper attention and support during upcoming entrega de restos ceremonies.

In addition to contributing to promoting the emotional recovery of the family members, a good argument could be made that exhumations strengthen the Colombian peace process. Such investigations expose the horrible atrocities committed by paramilitaries and guerrilla movements and I suspect that they might serve to undermine the support these groups receive from local communities. Illegal armed groups rely on various sources or "pillars" of support that include the authority or legitimacy granted to them, access to human resources and skills, supplies, and control over sources of knowledge and information. Without these important sources of material and logistical support, I suspect that armed groups would find themselves in a precarious situation and could be forced to negotiate a peace accord with the Colombian government.

New digs in Bogota

On Saturday, I moved out of the Hotel Falcon and into my new apartment. I'll be sharing the apartment with my friend (and classmate) Maggie who is here in Colombia doing an internship with the UN Office on Drugs and Crime.

Located in Northern Bogota, our two-bedroom apartment is just a five-minute walk from my office and blocks from the Parque de la 93. It includes a spacious living room, two baths, a kitchen, hardwood floors, and lots of windows.

The neighborhood surrounding our apartment has numerous businesses, including shops, boutiques, cafes, and bars. This upscale residential area also includes several embassies, consulates, and shopping centers.

Once we had moved into the apartment, Maggie and I headed off to do some grocery shopping at the Carrefour shopping center. This "mega-store" reminded me of IKEA for a couple reasons. First, it has everything you can imagine. Second, you can hardly imagine that so many people can fit under one roof. After our two-hour grocery shopping experience, we decided that we would avoid the Carrefour "mega-crowds" by never again setting foot in the store on the Saturday following payday. This was definitely a valuable lesson learned!

World travel map

Here's a map of the countries I have had a chance to visit. If you'd like to make your own map of countries (or U.S. states) visited, just click here.

A busy first week

My first few days of work at the International Organization for Migration (IOM) have been hectic but very good. I am excited about my internship and the projects that the organization has planned for me. I am especially pleased that my work here directly relates to my areas of interest, current studies at Fletcher, and past work experiences. Here is a brief summary of my first three days of work.

Monday was my first official day at the office and my supervisor put me right to work. He has arranged for me to work on two interesting projects with two other staff members. First, I'll be working with Catalina on developing a National Plan for Exhumations and putting together funding proposals to secure financial support for the Colombian government to conduct mass grave exhumations. The country has been in constant conflict for over 40 years and mass graves have accumulated throughout this period of violence. Second, I'll be working with Peter, a Dutchman based in Geneva, on a report that will provide the government with guidance as it takes its first steps to prosecute individuals responsible for war crimes and crimes against humanity. These two projects could ostensibly take a while but I think that the plan is that I'll finish these within the next week or so and then move on to my next projects.

I spent a good portion of the day doing research and writing on four past criminal tribunals. Specifically, I am researching recent tribunals and truth commissions in Africa (Rwanda, Sierra Leone, and South Africa) and Southeastern Europe (Former Yugoslavia). My goal is to collect information on these tribunals and summarize the various challenges that these judicial mechanisms have faced throughout their mandate. Colombia has set out to prosecute thousands of individuals responsible for war crimes and crimes against humanity, however based on past experiences only a fraction of those responsible can realistically be arrested, investigated, and convicted for their crimes. This is a reality that many countries must grapple with as they emerge from conflict situations and seek to re-establish the rule of law.

I had a meeting on Tuesday morning with the District Attorney to discuss the challenges of carrying out exhumations of mass graves in Colombia. The IOM has asked me to work with the District Attorney and members of the Prosecutor's Office to identify their areas of greatest need, to develop a protocol for conducting exhumations, and to devise a budget which we at IOM will then use to solicit funding from the United Nations member states. IOM and the District Attorney are interested in learning from my experiences in Perú and my work in exhumations. Specifically, they are hoping that I will provide them with guidance on "best practices" for returning the deceased individuals' remains to the surviving family members.

I spent the morning on Wednesday at the Foreign Ministry Office getting my immigration visa. For the remainder of the day, I will be writing a summary of the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia (ICTY), the International Criminal Tribual for Rwanda (ICTR), the Special Court for Sierra Leone, and the South African Truth and Reconciliation Commission. These summaries will be included in a report to the Colombian government that will offer recommendations on how best to prosecute the nearly 2,000 demobilized ex-combantants (ex-paramilitaries and ex-guerrillas).

Los Tunos Nature Reserve

On Sunday morning I met up with about 20 employees of the United Nations Development Program (UNDP) and joined them on an excursion to Los Tunos Nature Reserve. The reserve is located just about one hour by bus outside the city of Bogotá. Along the bus route, I was surprised at how quickly the city of Bogotá disappeared and gave way to a rural countryside of green hills and mountains. For example, just thirty minutes outside of the city the bus stopped and I took this picture of a beautiful waterfall and canyon!

When we arrived at the reserve we were treated to several tasty snacks (meat pastries, chocolate, fruit) and drinks before we headed out on our guided tour of the reserve. At Los Tunos, visitors can enjoy hiking, rock climbing, fishing at a trout farm, and relaxing within the confines of a beautiful and quiant bed and breakfast.

On our four-hour guided tour we hiked up the mountain along a steep and rocky mountain stream and into a "cloud forest." We even had to rely on ropes to climb several waterfalls! During our hike we learned about the many unique flowers, plants, and trees that grow on the reserve. One such beautiful but often deadly flower produces a neurotoxin that causes people to lose consciousness (and die) when the flower's aromatic pollen is inhaled. We all stayed plenty far away from that flower! Another poisonous plant has long been used by native people for fishing. When the plant's leaves are placed in a river or stream, poison paralyzes any fish in the area and causes them to float to the surface where they can then be collected. Amazing, right?

Our day at the reserve concluded with a delicious lunch that consisted of soup, fresh trout, fried yucca, rice, salad, fruit, and coffee served on an outdoor patio that was surrounded by a garden of beautiful of trees and flowers. In the end, I left the reserve quite amazed that such a beautiful place could exist just a short bus ride away from the hustle and bustle of Bogotá. It was a great day and I definitely recommend checking out the Tunos nature reserve if you ever find yourself in Bogotá!

A day of hiking in Bogotá

On Monday I learned that it was a religious holiday (the Day of Ascension) and that most offices and businesses would be closed. I then decided to enjoy the holiday in the same way that many locals do – by hiking up the Cerro de Monserrate. The Cerro (Mountain) de Monserrate is one of the highest peaks in the mountain range flanking Bogotá to the east. From downtown, it is easily recognizable by the massive white church crowning its top. On Monday morning, I joined the thousands of people who had flocked to the mountain to hike up its steep stone path and I was especially amazed by the masses of children that easily scampered up the rugged mountain path. By foot, the exhausting 1.5 mile hike up to Monserrate takes about an hour, but the less adventurous can get to the top in a matter of minutes by taking a fast-moving cable car (teleférico) or funicular railway. For the hikers, the path is lined with numerous venders and stalls selling a variety of goods including cold drinks, sandwiches, cookies, ice cream, jello, and fruit. I found two salesmen to be especially intriguing and unusual. One was selling cell phone minutes whereby you could pay to make a phone call from the side of the mountain. And the other was an elderly man selling chocolate-covered ants. He walked up and down the path and would yell out, “Ants! Ants! Get your delicious ants!” As he went by, I would hear people whispering, “Did he say ants? Oh my goodness! He is selling ants!”

Once at the top of the mountain, the view of Bogotá from Monserrate was absolutely breathtaking. Click on "My Latest Photos" to view pictures that I took during my hike up the Cerro de Monserrate.

Zipaquirá and the Salt Cathedral

On Sunday I took the bus to Zipaquirá, a small town about 30 miles outside of Bogotá. The town is best known for its salt mine that produces over 700 tons of salt every month. Over a hundred years ago the salt miners erected several small chapels throughout the mine and would hold daily prayer services in these chapels to ask for God’s protection. Since then miners have built the massive Salt Cathedral, a functioning church that holds mass everyday inside the mine. Amazingly, this underground place of worship can accommodate more than 8400 worshippers and has been used for numerous weddings, concerts, and conventions. Nowadays, miners spend their nights extracting salt from the mountainside and allow visitors (like me) to wander around the mine’s labyrinthine tunnels during the day.

Aside from the impressive Salt Cathedral, Zipaquirá is a very quiet and peaceful town. I especially enjoyed wandering around its narrow, cobblestone streets and taking pictures of the brightly painted homes and shops. You can view some of my pictures in my Colombia Photo Gallery.

Bogotá: A city full of surprises

In many ways Bogotá seems to be far removed from the violence and conflict that we often associate with Colombia. The past several days I have had the opportunity to explore the city and a few surrounding areas. One thing that has especially amazed and surprised me is the incredible natural beauty of the city and the countryside, and the hospitality of its people. For example, on several occasions I have seen strangers give up their seats on a crowded bus just to allow a pregnant woman, a mother with children, or an elderly person to sit down. And the other day I asked for help on how to take the bus to downtown. A young woman kindly took me to the bus stop and explained how to identify my bus. She then stood with me at the bus stop and waited to make sure that I got on the bus without difficulties.

Despite the ongoing conflict in Colombia between leftist insurgents, illegal armed groups (paramilitaries), and state security forces, the Colombian people seem to be extremely hospitable, optimistic, and determined to reject violence in favor of building a brighter future for the country. On Friday night I spent a few hours walking around downtown Bogotá and I found that several large streets were closed off to traffic. Friendly volunteers dressed in yellow vests and baseball caps held up banners that read, “Street closed – so that our beautiful public spaces might be enjoyed in peace.” The city had also set up several performance stages that attracted thousands of children, young people, adults, and families to take in shows by musicians, singers, dancers, comedians, and artists. Yellow-clad volunteers did face-painting, made balloon animals, and invited kids and adults to participate in a game of jump rope that spanned across an entire city street. I later learned that this celebratory event is held every Friday and routinely attracts thousands of people, young and old, from every corner of the city.

El Museo del Oro (The Gold Museum)

Last Friday afternoon I visited El Museo del Oro (The Gold Museum). This museum is located in a large and modern building in the lively and historic downtown neighborhood known as La Candelaria. The impressive exhibit displays more than 34,000 gold pieces from the primary pre-Hispanic cultures of Colombia. Artifacts in the Museo del Oro include thousands of exquisite objects in stone, bone, clay, gold, emerald, and textiles from numerous advanced civilizations that had thrived in the region before the arrival of Columbus.

A Prayer for Peace

On Friday, I wandered around downtown Bogotá and came across this monument. It refers to a well-known prayer by St. Francis of Assisi and I thought that I would share it with you.

The inscription reads:
"Lord, make me an instrument of your peace – that I might spread love where there is hatred–forgiveness where there is transgression – faith where there is doubt–hope where there is hopelessness – light where there is darkness–and happiness where there is sadness.

Oh, Divine Master, help me that I might console rather than seek consolation–understand rather than seek to be understood–love rather than seek to be loved–because giving is receiving–and forgiving is how you forgive me–and by dying in you I am born into eternal life."
-St. Francis of Assisi.

"Lord:
Grant your glorious gift of peace to the Colombian people."
-The Third Fransciscan Order

Water is life

The water was shut off in the entire neighborhood yesterday and today the situation remains unchanged. You know, we just don't realize how important water really is until it is gone. We are still without water today and there has been no sign of it being turned back on. This morning I found myself getting pretty frustrated with the situation because no water also meant no shower, toothbrushing, or using the toilet, all things that I am accustomed to doing on a regular basis. I spoke with the hotel owner, a man visibly distressed by the situation, and he put it best by saying, "Water is life. Without water, we have no life!"

So, yesterday I also visited the IOM office and ran a few errands. I've "mastered" the Bogotá bus system (or at least the bus routes that run between my hotel and the office) and I have even met several co-workers. After stopping by the office and meeting the IOM staff, I checked out an apartment that Maggie and I might rent for the summer. The building is located in an upscale neighborhood of Northern Bogotá just steps away from the Parque de la 93. It was a spacious two-bedroom with beautiful hardwood floors, modern furnishings, daily housekeeping services, and a wonderful view of the city. The apartment includes two parking spaces, so perhaps I should think about getting a motorcycle. Just kidding.

Yesterday, I also got to experience the process of purchasing a cellphone in Bogotá. I went to COMCEL, one of Colombia's largest wireless providers. The mammoth store looked more like a bank with its 25+ numbered checkout counters (think bank tellers) and the dozen or so Customer Service cubicles that surrounded the cavernous display floor. The store was packed with customers, each one seemingly as determined as me to buy a new phone.

Unfortunately, the young sales people at COMCEL seemed rather indifferent to my determination and at one point I even said to a salesperson, "Sell me a cellphone. Any cellphone will do. Just recommend one and I'll buy it." Her response was, "Well, I don't know. I can't help you if you're interested in Motorolas. I only sell LGs and Ericcsons."

In the end, I found a Nokia (sans help from the LG/Ericcson salesperson) and proceeded to the checkout. But first, I was directed towards one of the Customer Service cubicles (a sign overhead informed me that this was for "Personalized Customer Service") to fill out an application. There I provided about 10 copies of my passport. Then I put my fingerprints on at least 12 different forms. I had my picture taken. And then, I waited...and waited. To be more precise, I waited about 45 minutes to be approved. I was then directed to stand in line to pay for my phone (a snazzy black Nokia). When I got to the head of the line, the credit card machine wasn't able to read my card. So, I ran to the bank and got some cash. When I returned, I stood in line again. Once I had paid, I then proceeded to stand in Line Number 24. After about 45 minutes in Line Number 24, I was given the most amazing, spectacular, and magnificent Nokia cellphone that I've ever seen in my life. After so much effort and anticipation, having it in my hands felt like how I imagine the birth of my first child. Seeing it there in all its plastic and silicon glory made the 4+ hours of personalized customer service seem all worth it.

Corruption traps millions in poverty

Transparency International is a global civil society organization that uses a variety of tools, including expert opinion surveys, questionnaires, and polls, to measure the perceptions of public sector corruption in 163 countries. According to Transparency International, corruption is defined as the misuse of entrusted power for private gain. The study of corruption is important because of the strong correlation that exists between corruption and poverty. Furthermore, corruption is not just a problem in a few countries; on the contrary, it is considered a serious domestic threat in over seventy-five percent of the world.

“Corruption traps millions in poverty,” says Transparency International Chair Huguette Labelle. “Despite a decade of progress in establishing anti-corruption laws and regulations, today’s results indicate that much remains to be done before we see meaningful improvements in the lives of the world’s citizens.” The fight against corruption in North America gained importance as a result of recent accounting, financial and political scandals. Meanwhile, corruption in Latin America is largely defined by structural problems that not only adversely affect the region’s economic and democratic development, but also place a direct burden on the overall quality of life.

In 2006, out of 163 countries surveyed the countries with the lowest perceived levels of corruption were Finland, Iceland, and New Zealand. Haiti, Myanmar, Iraq, and Guinea were among the countries with the highest levels of corruption. In a report that compares only countries located in the Americas, the United States ranks second, tied with Chile behind Canada. In comparison to the 163 countries surveyed worldwide, the United States ranks 20th overall. In contrast, Colombia ranks ninth in the Americas and 59th overall.

My first day in Bogotá

Greetings from the Casona del Patio Amarillo (the House with the Yellow Patio) in Bogotá, Colombia! I arrived safe and sound last night at around eight o’clock and settled into my hotel room about an hour later. The Casona del Patio Amarillo is a quaint Bed and Breakfast located in a quiet neighborhood in Northern Bogotá. My room is fairly large and has cable television, a small wooden armoire, an electric shower nozzle (for hot water), and three single beds. The room also has a great view of the yellow patio and the lush, green mountains that rise up alongside Bogotá.

My trip went well and I had no significant problems getting through customs, receiving my luggage, or finding a ride to the hotel. The issue of my tourist visa did resurface though while having the customs official stamp my passport. The length of my stay did seem to raise some red flags but the issue was fairly quickly resolved when I explained that I would have a work visa within a matter of days.

During my taxi ride from the airport to the hotel, I had a very pleasant conversation with my driver. We had a lively discussion on Colombian politics, corruption, taxes, family values, and the challenges of married life. He especially lamented the fact that Colombians pay such high taxes and yet receive so little in return in terms of public services. He complained about political corruption and how it has left the country with a legacy of dilapidated schools, roads, and hospitals. However, it did seem to cheer him up a little to learn that, while perhaps not to the same degree, similar problems exist even in the United States. He especially appreciated knowing that Boston had a not so fabulous roadway system and that the power and influence of the mafia (mob) was an issue that local Bostonians knew all too well.

Today I woke up early and had breakfast in the hotel. For those of you that have expressed interest in hearing about the more mundane details of my life in Colombia, today I had scrambled eggs, coffee, and a croissant for breakfast. During breakfast I made a plan for the rest of my day that includes stopping by the IOM office and looking for a two-bedroom, furnished apartment for Maggie and me.

Nearly grounded in Boston

I just arrived to Atlanta and I'm quite happy just to be here! When checking in for my flight from Boston I was told that I couldn't board the plane because I did not have the proper travel visa. A tourist visa is only valid for 90 days and since I will be staying in Colombia for longer, this led to several tense moments. Then again, I wasn't that worried because I will have a work visa within a few days. I knew that in the worst-case scenario, I could have had my tourist visa extended by simply leaving the country and re-entering to get a new stamp in my passport. This is a common practice that I have done before, therefore I knew that the airline representative was mistaken. In the end, the woman working behind the counter realized her mistake and let me board the plane to Atlanta. It all worked out in the end, but for a few minutes I thought that my travel plans had hit a snag.

The Children's Peace Movement

In 1995, the mayor of the war-torn municipality of Aguachica, Colombia announced that elections would be held and that residents would be asked to vote for peace or a continuation of the war. Shortly after his announcement, a group of children asked if they too could participate in the election. The mayor accepted and the children participated in the election. And one year later these same children formed a parallel "Children's Government" dedicated to peacemaking. The Children's Government organized “peace carnivals” and invited children from feuding communities to play together because, as they put it, “children having fun was a good way to help peace.”

The kids realized that most Colombians were unaware of how the conflict actually affected children and they knew that nobody could get that message across to the entire nation as effectively as could the children. So, they decided to organize a nationwide election for peace.

On October 25, 1996, children from across Colombia went to the polls to vote for their rights. Polling stations across the country ran out of ballots and in Bogotá the elections had to be extended to meet the overwhelming demand. More than 2.7 million children went to the polls that day and demanded their right to peace, their right to love, and their right to family. Even in the most violent areas of the country, it was estimated that voter turnout was over 90 percent. This historic event forced the issue of peace to the forefront of the forthcoming presidential elections. When Andres Pastrana was declared the presidential winner in 1998, he announced that the children had given him his agenda for the presidency and that if he did nothing else while in office he had to make peace.

“Peace begins with yourself, with the way you treat your family, your friends, your communities, your country – but it does not stop there. Peace that begins in the hearts of children can cover the whole world.” – Mayerly, age 14.

As demonstrated by the Children’s Peace Movement, the power of children is “not just in the eloquence of their words, but in the fact that they are said by children.” Today, the Children´s Peace Movement in Colombia has more than 100,000 members that have been trained in conflict resolution. Some children say that their views have been taken so seriously because of their innocence and sincerity. While adults may be skeptical of news reports and biased media accounts of the war, they tend to believe children when they talk about the devastating effects of violence.

In addition to children's perceived credibility, the warring parties also view children as neutral actors within the conflict. While neutrality does not ensure their protection, it does seem to influence the belligerent parties. On the day of the children’s election, state security forces, paramilitaries, and guerrillas agreed to a temporary cease-fire. And as one 16-year-old election participant pointed out, “if there can be one day of peace, why not a week, a month, a year, 50 years? Why not 50 years of peace to make up for our 50 years of war?”

What do you think? Can children actually make a difference in conflict zones?

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Cameron, Sara. 2000. “The Role of Children as Peace-Makers in Colombia.” Development. Volume 43, Number 1.

Cameron, Sara. 2000. “Voices of Colombian Children on War and Peace.” Development. Volume 43, Number 1.

Registraduría Nacional del Estado Civil (1996) Informe sobre el “Mandato Nacional de los Nìños por la Paz.” Bogotá.

Video: "Colombia: A paradise to explore"

Colombia's "Desplazados"

"Fighting in Colombia among left-wing guerrillas, right-wing paramilitaries, drug traffickers and the army has helped to create the largest population of internally displaced people outside Sudan - at least 3.8 million, and growing.

Threatened off their lands, los desplazados leave their simple life of subsistence farming for the harsh, bewildering realities of urban slums. Most don't want to or can't return home, where fear and uncertainty await. What they want is to seguir adelante — to move forward — with dignity and opportunity. In three of Colombia's largest cities, Mercy Corps is lending a hand."

I have chosen Mercy Corps to be today's "Featured Organization". It is a non-government organization (NGO) that I feel is doing great work in Colombia. Click here to learn more about their work in Colombia. I especially recommend that you check out their Photo Essay on Colombia's "desplazados."

Birthday surprises, galore!

Thanks to all my friends and family for your kind words, thoughtful cards, encouraging phone calls, and extravagant birthday gifts! You've all really made my day!

It has been a nice, sunny day here in Medford, Massachusetts. First, I woke up to the sound of my mother singing a very "jazzy" version of Happy Birthday. Then, I walked to the school bookstore and bought myself a snazzy new "Tufts" track jacket. Next, I headed down to Davis Square and treated myself to some icecream (Oreo flavor) at JP Licks. And since then, I've been having an amazing time here in the library.

While the library isn't the most exciting place to celebrate a birthday, I have to say that I just received a nice little birthday "surprise." Today is the "Spring Fling" at Tufts Univesity, a day of celebration when the undergraduate students drink too much and let it all hang out. Apparently, one female student felt the need to let it all hang out by removing all of her clothes and running through the Ginn Library at Fletcher. Of all the surprises I've gotten today, the "birthday suit" might have been the most memorable (and strangely humorous)!

I'd like to also thank my amazing roommates and friends for celebrating this day with me. Knowing how busy everyone is makes me appreciate you guys all the more! You're the best.

Thanks again, everyone.